Interview with Maurizo Amadei for Hector (Hostem Mag), July 2012
Delight In the Detail
2011 was a paradigm shift of a year. Changes in one’s lifestyle
were sought by many, changes in thinking by the
government were sought absolutely, changes in thinking
by the police were sought reluctantly, changes in thinking
for political leaders the world over were sought forcibly,
changes in thinking in the retail sector were sought optimistically
and changes in thinking in fashion were sought
obviously. As the world turns, grounded designer Maurizio
Amadei focuses on the little things.
The individual has had to learn to adapt to their social surroundings,
to accept changes more negative than not and the
world has felt the brunt of years of bad mistakes. 2011 wasn’t
anything new, changes like this must and do occur in society
more often than we think, it was only in the 1980s that those
old enough to remember experienced more or less the same
kind of developments and regressions in the economy, society
and world wide. Coming out of those dark times were the
indulgent 1990s where the yuppy went mainstream and everyone
could and would have a taste of the finer things in life.
This year we will still be reeling from the hangover, but the
taste of those that revelled and induced the need for thoughtful
alkaseltzer is still fresh and certainly won’t wear off for some
time to come. The retail sector was predicted to suffer over
the winter period but instead it flummoxed the Aristotles and
roared on, not with lion force but the roar still lingered. In
fashion it appears people are seeking the pieces that last, that
stand the test of time, throw-away seasonal items are being
advised against.
One would assume that a wallet effecting label such as ma+
would have to adapt to not feeling the brunt of change. But
Maurizo Amadei sticks to what he likes, the second skin many
like to refer to when describing his output, is paramount and
a second skin is what people now seek with their purchases.
Imagine a new lover, discovering the many contours of their
body, and over the coming weeks and months stumbling upon
hidden moles, birthmarks and scars, all the things that make
the skin a beautiful textile to admire. Maurizio is, of course,
famous for his leather work and perhaps this is also responsible
for the second skin connotations.
Kevin Soar [KS ]: I have read much about how your designs
are inspired by the human form, when did this idea start to
inspire you? Was it something you were interested in when
you began or a gradual appreciation?
Maurizio Amadei [ma+]: My interest in the human form g rew
since I was young. But I am also inspired by all kinds of forms,
whether it be geometric shapes or wildlife.
[KS ]: Are you interested in forms to seek an ideal? Do you
believe in the ‘ideal human form’ or should it be celebrated
in all its guises?
[ma+]: Much of the collection is quite fitted, so naturally I have
a certain form in mind if I want the pieces to be comfortable
to wear. But thankfully, there are all kinds of shapes out there
to keep life interesting and fresh. The A+V project we are doing
is as much about any kind of form as it is based on the custom
made to measure approach.
[KS ]: Do you have a perfect muse, past or present, that you
imagine pieces on to help design?
[ma+]: Not really, muses come and go. However, I have used the
same male fitting model for the last five years, since he was 16.
I like the idea of watching him grow with the collections. I only
see him when we are presenting a collection in Paris, so I need
to imagine how things will fit him whilst I’m developing them.
[KS ]: Is it important that to celebrate the human form you
must feel slightly detached from it? Surely like everyone
else you must see things on the news that make you detest
humanity sometimes?
[ma+]: Definitely. When it comes to news, I see mostly things that
make me very depressed, angry or disgusted… but I guess that’s
what sells news. Luckily, to reaffirm my notion of humanity,
I have family, friends, positive new encounters and very importantly,
humorous moments.
[KS ]: Many designers detach themselves from world events
to concentrate on their work. Where do you stand on
Europe’s current financial crisis and the political situation
in Italy? Do you ever worry about the future, whether in
business or personally?
[ma+]: I usually try to ignore politics in Italy because it is
so pathetic. But of late, shutting it off is almost impossible.
I feel more concerned for the future Italy. It does not really
matter where you are or where you come from – we are so
interconnected. The problems of today are increasingly shared
and can only be resolved with widening co-operation. But
I do feel a general optimism in that such a pressure point that
we are currently experiencing could bring strong changes,
which would be good…changes in structure, thinking, attitudes…
real progress.
[KS ]: Leather, many would a rgue, i s the material you a re
most famous for using. The material in garment form has
connotations with the rebel, and the hunter among others.
Which of these do you feel closer to in your personality?
[ma+]: Good question. Hard to pick one. I am motivated by the
traditional origins of leather use not wasting [anything] from a
hunt and I am attracted by the strong tough look of leather. If I
really had to choose, I would have to say the hunter aspect,
even though I don’t hunt.
[KS ]: With regard to your timeless work boots, did you design
and make them to withstand the stresses of day to day labouring
or as more of a peacock/expressive piece of footwear?
[ma+]: They’re both equally important. But knowing that something
is made to last, feeling and looking better with wear,
really deepens its aesthetic.
[KS ]: When did you first become fascinated by the craft and
beauty of leather?
[ma+]: When I left home to go and live in London I started to experiment
more with what I wore. I have always looked at what
we wear as a second skin and leather being one, it naturally
became a base for me to develop from.
[KS ]: Your style of constructing I would say is not very
European. Where does this almost Zen way of construction
come from?
[ma+]: I’m not really sure what European is? I take influences
from all kinds of things…obvious and not so obvious. I like the
idea of Zen, for example, it suits the way I ideally like to create.
But life is full of many intense moments…maybe this drives me
to find and make some tranquillity in making the pieces.
[KS ]: I know your textiles are largely sought in Japan; do
you also take inspiration from the East?
[ma+]: Yes, very much so. I try to go to Japan once a year for
the fabric and love to see firsthand how things work there and
understand their points of view.
[KS ]: I find your work is not defined by trends but it seems
the product of an artisan. Do you keep an eye on what
those on the streets of Rome or in fact any large fashionable
city are wearing and what other designers are doing,
or do your inspirations come purely from the imagination,
the psyche of an artist?
[ma+]: I’m actually not very often in the city, nor do I browse
the internet or read magazines. I guess I absorb things from my
teenage daughter, listening to music, a film, reading a book, a
conversation, being able to relax or even to argue...anything
really. I don’t really work through themes or stories. A lot of it
is problem solving, if you can really call them problems.
[KS ]: Do you have a specific piece in your back catalogue
that is close to your heart?
[ma+]: I like pulling things out that I have not worn for a long
time or especially things that I have forgotten about. I get quite
a nice sensation if I can relate to it on different levels, whether
it be reliving certain memories, revising how I made it or seeing
it with fresh eyes.
[KS ]: You must then take an interest in buildings and also
the shapes of the natural world. What places always give
the most joy and stimulation to your brain?
[ma+]: I really enjoy travelling and seeing all kinds of environments.
But I get the most joy from nature, in particularly the sea.
[KS ]: Once you c reate something, do you ever take more
and more away to see the very beauty of the bones of the
garment and work with that?
[ma+]: S ure, t his p rocess h elps t o e stablish a f oundation t o
explore and evolve in new directions. People sometimes say to
me that there is not enough change in the collection, but it’s a
little like quantum physics, there is a lot there if you are open
or wanting to see it.
[KS ]: I see your work as somewhere in the middle, a beautiful
cohesion between the wearer and the cloth. What type of
person would you say works seamlessly in ma+?
[ma+]: It’s open. There are people who are looking for something
from ma+, whether it is a way of construction, certain
details, a deepness to the fabric, a particular essence. There are
also people who have a chance meeting with a piece, leading
to a new found connection, we all like nice surprises.
www.maurizioamadei.com